Cambodia - Siem Reap to Sihanoukville

Up north we rode in another brain rattling, little bus. On the way, we met a Cambodian guide who offered to take us around Angkor Wat and the rest, on a three day circuit. We enthusiastically agreed! When our bus pulled in to Siem Reap station, we were surprised to see the large mob waiting outside the station, that the bus had to ease its way through. As soon as the bus doors opened, the gates opened and the mob came running at us in full force. Tuk-tuk drivers. I had never seen anything like it! My instinct was to scream, but it was diffused when the guide we'd hired shuffled us away from the crowd and stood in front of us as our protector. He called some friends and they came to pick us up and drive us around town until we were satisfied with a guest house.

A couple hours later we were picked up by our guide and driven to Angkor Wat. Seeing it for the first time was surreal. This is one of the Seven Wonders of the World, and here it is right in front of us! It was absolutely massive. It just kept going and going! There are over 50 temples over a 20km area, dating from the 8th century to the 12th. We were driven to Bayon temple, where we climbed the huge hill, and then a set of the steepest steps you could imagine! The steps did not have a railing and were so steep people would have to press their bodies against them in order to get up, then sit down on each step when trying to get down. Its insane that monks would just walk up and down these regularly! We made it just on time for the sun to set. What else can I say, except it was breathtaking. It was one of the few places where I found it hard to believe we were actually there. Again, like being transported back to the 8th century.

The next morning, we rose at 4am to drive back to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. Amazing. We spent the day, until the sun started to set again, going from Temple to Temple. Angkor Thom was one of our favourites. You'd probably recognize pictures of it, as it is where the hundreds of enormous faces are carved into huge stone blocks around the temple. Also, Ta Phrom where the ruins were left as they were found (most of the temples have been rebuilt after being destroyed during the war). Here, there are actual trees growing on the temples and their huge roots flow over the walls and doorways. It is so incredible. This is where Tomb Raider was filmed as well, so if you've seen it, you can imagine what it looks like. The detail and the history that goes with all the carvings in the stone on each one of these temples is absolutely mind boggling. You would need a couple weeks to really see it properly. We spent the next five days in Siem Reap. The one day Trish, Brad and I decided to take off, Ian just would not have it, and decided to ride the 80km to and back from a distant temple on his own. Everyone thought he was crazy to do it, but he did it alright, and could barely walk the next day as a result. Still, an impressive feat, indeed!

On day four, Ian and I decided to volunteer at one of the new orphanages that had just opened up. This 26 year old Cambodian man has done everything in his power to start up this orphanage, clothing, feeding and educating around 40 children (and babies). A couple British ladies were there for a month as volunteer teachers and the difference that they have made in these kids lives is astounding. Almost all the children could speak, read and write basic english. When Ian and I arrived, unlike the kids in Vietnam who would yell out, "Money, Money!" and try to grab our pockets, these kids would touch our hair and faces, and hold our hands, trying to drag us off to play with them, or to show us how they could read a book. They have less than anyone, and not one asked for money. These kids were so beautiful and so happy. How inspiring, when you can only imagine what they have been through in their lives.

The next day we took the very looooong bus down to Sihanoukville on the south coast of Cambodia. We arrived at night and were driven by two men on motorbikes, to some random shack on the beach. And I mean ON the beach.....practically on the water, since the tide came up only a few feet from the bar. The next day we discovered the whole beach was full of beach shacks and that they were free to stay in provided you buy two meals at their restaurant. For the next six days, Trish, Brad, Ian and I lazed around on the beach while women with grilled seafood, platers of spring rolls and fruit, hair threading kits (like waxing, but with string), massage kits, nail kits, men with boxes of books and jewelry, were at our disposal. I wouldn't move for the whole day and by the end would have smooth legs, be eating fruit, and reading my new book, without ever moving. On top of that, random bars would have free drinks one night, free dinners another night...... It was great. It was paradise! The weather was perfect, the water was warm and blue, and we fell in love with this place. The best part about it is that its not touristy yet. I'm afraid it will be soon though. There is no way a place like this can exist and not be complete bombarded with tourist in the near future. Those who have discovered it however, stay for much longer than they had originally intended, or stay on permanently. Ian and I found out one of the beach bars was up for sale, for pretty much next to nothing. We instantly got the brilliant idea that we should buy it. For three days, Ian was in negotiations with the owner, but soon we had to conclude that we can't do it right now. So, if anyone is up for buying a beach bar in Cambodia, I know of a good one!

I have never felt so upset leaving a place. This was by far the best we had been to and Ian and I have vowed that we would be back. All in all, Cambodia was our absolute favourite. The people, the history, the sites, all surpassed anything we had seen so far. If you ever have a chance to go to Asia, make Cambodia the top of your list! (I know, I sound like a travel agency - Trust me, I'm not getting commission.)